Jewelry Terminology - Pavé Setting

From time to time on our Facebook page we have jewelry terminology information. Here is the latest:


Jewelry term of the day: Pavé Setting. 
What is it? Pavé Setting is when the metal of a piece is covered in stones that are set very close together so as little of the metal shows through as possible. It's as if the metal is paved in stones. Here is an example of crystals set this way on a pair of Butler and Wilson Earrings.

To see bigger images and more views or purchase click: http://www.rubylane.com/item/693657-bwdkear-135/Vintage-Butler-Wilson-Large-Pave

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Art Deco Vintage Jewelry Guide

What is Art Deco?

Art Deco is known as a style or era relating to the years 1920-1935. Of course, it didn't start on January 1, 1920 and end at the stroke of midnight on December 31, 1935, but the years mentioned are when we see the strongest examples of Art Deco characteristics. As the Deco era approached and as it faded away, we see signs of it mixed in with the era that preceded it and the era that followed. These times are known as transitional times as one era transitions into another.

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Costume jewelry from this time consisted of (but is not limited to):

geometric shapes
angles
strong lines
bright color contrasts
copied from expensive Paris examples
Czech jewelry
German jewelry made with sterling silver, dyed chalcedony (made to imitate chrysoprase), and marcasites
marcasites (faux and real) or what is known as marcasite that is actually pyrite
butterfly wing jewelry
speed related themes such as greyhounds, rockets, airplanes, etc.
Bakelite
Celluloid
filigree
enamel
"fruit salad" jewelry
real and synthetic gems such as jade, coral, onyx, mother of pearl, ivory, lapis, rock crystal, chrysoprase, carnelian, rubies, emeralds, smoky quartz, amozonite
dress clips
duettes
"white" metal made to resemble platinum, often rhodium plated
birthstone jewelry

Art Deco Geometric Step Vauxhall Glass Necklace

 

This Art Deco era bracelet is made with sterling silver and has sparkling marcasite accents and a big glowing ribbed molded glass center stone.

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Influences

Egyptian themes (following the discovery of the Pyramid tombs)
African and Japanese influences
modern technology influences (The Machine Age)
Jazz Age influences
Hollywood influences
the Paris Exposition - the International Exposition des Arts Decoratifs
the Russian Ballet
Cubism 

the Bauhaus

Art Deco Era Cleopatra Belt Buckle

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Art Deco Jewelry in Different Forms

Necklaces

long flapper beaded necklaces
Czech necklaces with angular glass stones and marcasites
long necklaces worn together with short chokers or wrapped around the neck once to simulate a choker look
faux pearls and glass beads
use of Venetian beads
amber beaded necklaces
rectangular pendants with "Lalique-like" crystals

Art Deco Geometric Open Back Stones Necklace

Bracelets

many worn at one time on both wrists (as a symbol of fashion as well as status)
the "bangle" and the "tennis bracelet"
flexible link bracelets

Art Deco bracelet with alexandrite crystal 

Earrings

long dangles worn with "bobbed" hair
screw-back

Art Deco Reverse Carved Sterling Crystal Earrings

Brooches and Pins

circle and oval shapes
"white" clear rhinestone pave set brooches
Florida theme (flamingos and palm trees)
Scottie dogs (Franklin D. Roosevelt had a Scottie dog in the 30's)
gazelles
arrows
air travel themes

Rings

use of large synthetic or semiprecious stones (commonly seen is chrysoprase or onyx)
filigree settings
rectangular shape

Sterling Marcasite and Chrysoprase Glass Deco Ring

Dress Clips

enamel
rhinestones / paste
worn just about everywhere on the body
a staple for the stylish woman

 

Green Glass Geometric Deco Dress Clip

Buckles

carved and molded glass

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Sources:

Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry, 1840-1950 - 5th Ed by Jeanenne Bell, G.G. C. Jeanenne Bell, C. Jeanenne Bell (Producer)

Warman's Jewelry: A Fully Illustrated Price Guide to 19th and 20th Century Jewelry, Including Victorian, Art Nouveau, and Costume (2nd Ed) by Christie Romero

Guide created: 17/08/06 (updated 01/19/11)

This blog and all contents Copyright © Vintage Jewelry Girl. All rights reserved.

Vintage Jewelry Tip: Resource Guides

Vintage Jewelry Tip Of The Month:Most Useful Reference and Price Guides 05/07

There are so many resource and price guides available for vintage jewelry but how are you supposed to know which ones are most worth investing in? Our library contains over 50 of these books so we've outlined the ones we find most useful for identification, information, and pricing.

1. Unsigned Beauties of Costume Jewelry: Identification and Values by Marcia Sparkles Brown: A collector favorite! - This book has many photos of jewelry of all different kinds. It's fun to search through or pieces you already own! The price guide is reasonable although consideration is not given to unsigned pieces that are known to be from certain manufactures which results in an under pricing for some items.

2. Collecting Rhinestone & Colored Jewelry by Maryanne Dolan. - We like this book not only for the pictures and price guide (most pictures are in black and white) but for the extensive section on designer trademarks. It will encourage you to search for designers you had never heard of before! Almost half of the large 399 page book is dedicated to this topic with images of each mark included.

3. Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry: Covers 1840-1950 by Jeanenne Bell - This book has information about jewelry and fashion specific to each time period with pictures and values to support it. If you are purely interested in costume jewelry, you may be put off by the amount of fine jewelry represented in this book. However, it is a valuable resource for learning about fine pieces and styles which costume jewelry you collect was modeled after.

If you have a more refined, eclectic taste for vintage jewelry, we strongly recommend the following three books. I don't believe "American Costume Jewelry" is being produced anymore so you may have to find it in the second hand market. Please feel free to comment on this if you know more.

A TRIBUTE TO AMERICA by Carla and Roberto Brunialti

AMERICAN COSTUME JEWELRY by Carla and Roberto Brunialti

EUROPEAN DESIGNER JEWELRY by Ginger Moro

What are your favorite books on vintage jewelry? Let us and others know by leaving a comment.

Vintage Jewelry Tip - Vauxhall Glass

Here's our tip of the month for January. Do you know anything about his type of glass or have photos? We'd love to post them here!

Vintage Jewelry Tip Of The Month: What Is Vauxhall Glass?
01/07

Vauxhall glass was so named from a mirror glass which was made in Britain in the early 1700's at a glassworks which was located in Vauxhall, London. It was most commonly made in a deep burgundy color but other colors existed as well. It is considered quite hard to find because much of it became damaged in wearing. For more information, see A Collector's Guide To Costume Jewelry: Key Styles and How To Recognize Them by Tracy Tolkien and Henrietta Wilkinson. You may also want to check out this information on Vauxhall.

Vintage Jewelry Tip Of The Month - November 2006

Vintage Jewelry Tip Of The Month: Testing Pearls
11/06

Can you really tell if a pearl is real by biting it? Well, not really but you can tell a few things about a pearl using just your senses. First off, do not bite, but rub the pearl against your front tooth. If it feels gritty, not dirty but more textured, chances are that it is a cultured or genuine pearl. If it feels smooth, it is likely glass or plastic. 


Distinguishing the difference between cultured and genuine pearls is more tricky and it is recommended that you take your item to a jeweler to have it identified. If the pearl is drilled, look at the hole to see the thickness of the nacre. If it appears thin, it is a cultured pearl.

But how do you know if your synthetic pearl is glass or plastic? The teeth come into play here again. Tap the bead against your tooth. if it makes a "clunk" sound, it is likely plastic. If it makes a "clink" sound, it is likely glass. Test this with other items you know to be glass or plastic first to get a feel for the different feels and sounds. In addition, glass tends to be cold to the touch as opposed to plastic so temperature can be an indicator of material as well.