Art Deco Vintage Jewelry Guide

What is Art Deco?

Art Deco is known as a style or era relating to the years 1920-1935. Of course, it didn't start on January 1, 1920 and end at the stroke of midnight on December 31, 1935, but the years mentioned are when we see the strongest examples of Art Deco characteristics. As the Deco era approached and as it faded away, we see signs of it mixed in with the era that preceded it and the era that followed. These times are known as transitional times as one era transitions into another.

•     •     •     •    •     •     •

Costume jewelry from this time consisted of (but is not limited to):

geometric shapes
angles
strong lines
bright color contrasts
copied from expensive Paris examples
Czech jewelry
German jewelry made with sterling silver, dyed chalcedony (made to imitate chrysoprase), and marcasites
marcasites (faux and real) or what is known as marcasite that is actually pyrite
butterfly wing jewelry
speed related themes such as greyhounds, rockets, airplanes, etc.
Bakelite
Celluloid
filigree
enamel
"fruit salad" jewelry
real and synthetic gems such as jade, coral, onyx, mother of pearl, ivory, lapis, rock crystal, chrysoprase, carnelian, rubies, emeralds, smoky quartz, amozonite
dress clips
duettes
"white" metal made to resemble platinum, often rhodium plated
birthstone jewelry

Art Deco Geometric Step Vauxhall Glass Necklace

 

This Art Deco era bracelet is made with sterling silver and has sparkling marcasite accents and a big glowing ribbed molded glass center stone.

•     •     •     •    •     •     •

Influences

Egyptian themes (following the discovery of the Pyramid tombs)
African and Japanese influences
modern technology influences (The Machine Age)
Jazz Age influences
Hollywood influences
the Paris Exposition - the International Exposition des Arts Decoratifs
the Russian Ballet
Cubism 

the Bauhaus

Art Deco Era Cleopatra Belt Buckle

•     •     •     •    •     •     •

Art Deco Jewelry in Different Forms

Necklaces

long flapper beaded necklaces
Czech necklaces with angular glass stones and marcasites
long necklaces worn together with short chokers or wrapped around the neck once to simulate a choker look
faux pearls and glass beads
use of Venetian beads
amber beaded necklaces
rectangular pendants with "Lalique-like" crystals

Art Deco Geometric Open Back Stones Necklace

Bracelets

many worn at one time on both wrists (as a symbol of fashion as well as status)
the "bangle" and the "tennis bracelet"
flexible link bracelets

Art Deco bracelet with alexandrite crystal 

Earrings

long dangles worn with "bobbed" hair
screw-back

Art Deco Reverse Carved Sterling Crystal Earrings

Brooches and Pins

circle and oval shapes
"white" clear rhinestone pave set brooches
Florida theme (flamingos and palm trees)
Scottie dogs (Franklin D. Roosevelt had a Scottie dog in the 30's)
gazelles
arrows
air travel themes

Rings

use of large synthetic or semiprecious stones (commonly seen is chrysoprase or onyx)
filigree settings
rectangular shape

Sterling Marcasite and Chrysoprase Glass Deco Ring

Dress Clips

enamel
rhinestones / paste
worn just about everywhere on the body
a staple for the stylish woman

 

Green Glass Geometric Deco Dress Clip

Buckles

carved and molded glass

•     •     •     •    •     •     •

Sources:

Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry, 1840-1950 - 5th Ed by Jeanenne Bell, G.G. C. Jeanenne Bell, C. Jeanenne Bell (Producer)

Warman's Jewelry: A Fully Illustrated Price Guide to 19th and 20th Century Jewelry, Including Victorian, Art Nouveau, and Costume (2nd Ed) by Christie Romero

Guide created: 17/08/06 (updated 01/19/11)

This blog and all contents Copyright © Vintage Jewelry Girl. All rights reserved.

Unusual, Strange, Unique Vintage Jewelry and Value

Why Would You Wear That?!

There are many pieces of jewelry out there the average consumer would look at and think are too strange to wear.  Some might think they are just plain ugly!  But others look at them and appreciate their oddly unique appeal and collectability.

Collectability is individual and is about you, the buyer.  Don't ever let a guide book or dealer tell you the value of something.  You determine market value as a consumer. Only ever pay as much as the item is worth to you and don't buy something just because it has a high perceived market value.  These are some ways you can maintain the actual worth of your collection.

Sometimes, it's these distinct pieces that are worth the most money for a few reasons. First, they often have a strong emotive attachment, meaning that it stirs, in the potential buyer, a strong emotional reaction due to subject matter, uniqueness and/or unconventional beauty.  Also, jewelry that was produced in larger quantities was generally more streamlined, less interesting and easier to construct so unique pieces are harder to come by which increases market value. Sometimes, it takes a strong knowledge of art, design and construction to appreciate a piece so what the average person doesn't see in it, a trained eye might.

Having said that, just because something is bizarre or peculiar, doesn't mean it's worth anything.  There are other factors involved such as availability, designer, construction, condition and  theme. 

Here are some of the strange and unusual pieces I have had over the years.  Do they appeal to you?  Would you wear them? What kind of value would you expect them to have and why? What do you have in your collection that you think would fit in this discussion?  

Whimsical Bakelite Flower Earrings - click to see in store

Lucite bubble ring

Elzac Lucite face brooch

Coro snake and lampwork glass eggs brooch - click to see in store

Favorite Finds in Vintage Costume Jewelry

Every now and then you find a piece that just grabs you for some reason or another. Sometimes it's just really glitzy or the style is one that really appeals to you. Here are some of my fave finds. What are yours? Post a link or a picture!

Unsigned Sherman Jewelry

Hello! I hope your jewelry finds have been good thus far this summer!

I came across a doozy of a brooch and earring set in the most vibrant fuchsia color. The minute I saw it, my instinct said Sherman but I turned it over and no signature! So does this mean the set is for sure not Sherman? Not at all. There is some misinformation out there that all Sherman jewelry was marked. This is not the case. I have had two pieces side by side and not a difference to them and I do very thoroughly inspect my jewelry. Not only that but in beaded parures with the necklace, bracelet and earrings you'll often only find one piece marked although they have the same workmanship and use the same components and may have even came in the same Sherman box. I have a set like that right now that I'm struggling with as well. In addition, other dealer friends agree that they also have had unsigned Sherman.

So, what do you think about attributing unsigned items to a designer?  Is it ethical?  Should price be affected and if so, how much?

Welcome to The Vintage Costume Jewelry Blog!

I am very excited to announce the opening of The Vintage Costume Jewelry Blog!

Bookmark this blog for information, news and discussions covering a wide variety of topics under the broader topic of vintage costume jewelry. Topics may include designer marks, construction, current fashion, hot trends, remakes, design, style and our current findings.

My name is Jo-Ann and I am the proprietor of Vintage Jewelry Girl, an online store and resource site for vintage jewelry. That's my picture in the top right corner. I have been dealing in vintage jewelry for 8 years and am self taught with the help of various excellent internet resources and zillions of books which are the most precious part of my library. I treasure them as much as I treasure my jewelry!

We'll start off with a new find for today which is not yet listed on the site. The brooch above is a pink diamond or square (depending on how it is worn) piece with molded iridescent glass stones. Do you know who made this piece? Leave a comment with your guess and I'll update the blog later to tell you if you were right.

Well, that’s all for today. Take Care!
Jo-Ann