Jewelry Terminology - Pavé Setting

From time to time on our Facebook page we have jewelry terminology information. Here is the latest:


Jewelry term of the day: Pavé Setting. 
What is it? Pavé Setting is when the metal of a piece is covered in stones that are set very close together so as little of the metal shows through as possible. It's as if the metal is paved in stones. Here is an example of crystals set this way on a pair of Butler and Wilson Earrings.

To see bigger images and more views or purchase click: http://www.rubylane.com/item/693657-bwdkear-135/Vintage-Butler-Wilson-Large-Pave

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Sherman Vintage Jewelry Guide

For Updated Info On Sherman Jewelry, Visit Our New Sherman Jewelry Guides.

Sherman Jewelry, produced in Canada from 1947 to 1981, boasts exquisite craftsmanship and fine Austrian crystal rhinestones. Pieces are often plated in rhodium or gold, with some featuring japanned or "gun metal" finishes. Popular motifs include florals, wreaths, and leaves, alongside more uncommon figural designs like basket brooches and butterfly pins. Rare finds include coveted cat brooches.  Pink, purple, fuchsia, and red are the most sought after colors and pieces with opaque stones are generally harder to come by. Bright orange and emerald has also known to command higher prices as do unique fall color combinations of orange, topaz and green, or the tropical "tutti fruity" fuchsia, purple, green and pale yellow. Rhinestone brooch and earring sets, as well as less intricate necklaces are common. Wide glitzy bracelets are a collector favorite. You may also find crystal beaded necklaces, bracelets and earrings by this company.  Not all pieces are always signed so it is a good idea to familiarize yourself with common elements and construction of this popular designer.

Blue is a more common color although it is still desired by collectors. This particular striking showstopper of an earring design is highly sought after. 

This light topaz necklace has a subtle play of a neutral color scheme that is enhanced with stones featuring an "Aurora Borealis" finish. The large center stone is less common and desirable.

Full and partial sets are always exciting to Sherman collectors and enthusiasts and this "tutti-fruity" color scheme highly sought after.

Deep red is always a favorite by Sherman collectors.  This gorgeous necklace has a deep Siam red glass drop which makes it very special.

Sherman manufactured beaded sets such as this one.  Only the earrings are signed which means that there are likely a number of beaded necklaces out there being bought and sold without either party knowing that they are Sherman pieces. The necklace would have has a paper hang tag, which was removed before wearing. 

For Updated Info On Sherman Jewelry, Visit Our New Sherman Jewelry Guides.

Kenneth Jay Lane Vintage Jewelry Guide

Kenneth Jay Lane (1963-present)
- started out as a shoe designer working for Delman Shoes and later Christian Dior Shoes
- began designing earrings (1963) for which he immediately started receiving orders
- Saks Fifth Avenue sold out of his designs during the first day of sale
- designed shoes during the day and jewelry at night and on the weekends until it was profitable to become a full time business
- Kenneth Lane Jewelry is well known for being large, daring, flashy, imaginative, and fun. It is also known to be worn by the "rich and famous"
- His "pearls" have been worn by royalty

Marks Used:
Kenneth Lane
Kenneth J. Lane
K.J.L.
K.J.L. For Avon
K.J.L. For Laguana
The exact dates of when these marks were used is unclear. Personal research indicates that earlier pieces were marked K.J.L however this mark has been seen on recent pieces although it is accompanied by the words Tiawan or China.

Additional and Suggested References:
Kenneth Jay Lane: Faking It, Kenneth Jay Lane, Harrice Simons Miller, John Bigelow Taylor (Photographer), ISBN 0-81093-579-1, Published October 1996, Published by Harry N. Abrams, Inc.

Costume Jewelry: The Great Pretenders (Schiffer Book for Collectors) Third Edition With Revised Price Guide, Lyngerda Kelley, Nancy Schiffer, ISBN 0-7643-0613-8, Published April 1996, Revised 1998, Published by Schiffer Publishing, Ltd.

Fifty Years of Collectible Fashion Jewelry 1925-1975, Lillian Baker, ISBN 0-89145-319-9, Published April 1986, Published by Collector Books.

Popular Jewelry of the 60s, 70s & 80s (Schiffer Book for Collectors), Roseann Ettinger, ISBN 0-88740-998-9, Published March 1997, Published by Schiffer Publishing, Ltd.


          

         

The Results Are In! Vintage Jewelry Survey

Vintage Jewelry Survey - Results Published June, 2008

What do other people who buy vintage jewelry collect? What kinds of designers do people enjoy? How many pieces do they own? Are their interests similar to yours? Here are the most popular answers given by our newsletter subscribers. 

Q. What is your primary reason for buying vintage jewelry?
A. I enjoy collecting it.

Q. What types of costume jewelry do you enjoy buying?
A. Rhinestone, designer signed and "Whatever I like."

Q. 3. Where do you like to buy your jewelry?
A. Antique malls and shops.

Q. Have you bought any vintage costume jewelry in the last year?
A. Yes.

Q. How many pieces do you currently have in your collection?
A. More than 100.

Q. What sources do you use for learning about vintage jewelry?
A. Mostly internet, then books.

Q. How many vintage costume jewelry resource books and guides do you own?
A. 1-5.

Q. Do you have a favorite vintage jewelry designer?
A. No, I like many different designers.

Q. If you had to pick a few, who would be your favorites?

RESULTS (each list of designers is ordered from most to least votes within each category)

Very Popular (Chosen by more than 20 people): Miriam Haskell, Weiss, Trifari

Popular (Chosen by 10-19 people): Coro, Eisenberg, D&E (Juliana)

Moderately Popular (Chosen by 5-9 people): Sherman, Kenneth Jay Lane (KJL), Florenza, Har, Sarah Coventry, Hobe, Kramer, Boucher, Various Mexican Sterling Designers

Less Popular (Chosen by 2-4 people): Mazer / Jomaz, Lisner, Joan Rivers, Joseff of Hollywood, Hollycraft, Demario, David Andersen, JJ, Chanel, Art, Heidi Daus, Matisse, Ciner, Vendome, Schreiner, Nolan Miller, Cini, Pennino, Kirk's Folley, Van Dell, Monet, Whiting & Davis, Panetta, Alice Caviness, WIlliam Kerr

Special Mention (Chosen by 1 person): Bogoff, Hattie Carnegie, Schiaparelli, BSK, Barklay, VRBA, Staret, Sandor, Sweet Romance, Lunch at the Ritz, Piddley Links, Miracle, Sphinx, Butler & Wilson, Selro, Christian Dior, Avon, Jensen, DeRosa, Laguana

So why do all these people like to buy vintage jewelry? What do they do with it? Some answers may surprise you!

The answers in no particular order are:
- to restore
- to wear
- to study
- for re-enactment purposes
- to frame for art display and keepsake
- to re-sell
- for gifting
- to appreciate
- to remind of a loved one
- to brighten up the day
- to capture art and beauty of the past
- to play with

Do you have an interesting collection? Tell us about it!

Unsigned Sherman Jewelry

Hello! I hope your jewelry finds have been good thus far this summer!

I came across a doozy of a brooch and earring set in the most vibrant fuchsia color. The minute I saw it, my instinct said Sherman but I turned it over and no signature! So does this mean the set is for sure not Sherman? Not at all. There is some misinformation out there that all Sherman jewelry was marked. This is not the case. I have had two pieces side by side and not a difference to them and I do very thoroughly inspect my jewelry. Not only that but in beaded parures with the necklace, bracelet and earrings you'll often only find one piece marked although they have the same workmanship and use the same components and may have even came in the same Sherman box. I have a set like that right now that I'm struggling with as well. In addition, other dealer friends agree that they also have had unsigned Sherman.

So, what do you think about attributing unsigned items to a designer?  Is it ethical?  Should price be affected and if so, how much?